Banteay Kdei sits directly opposite Srah Srang and only a short distance from Ta Prohm, yet it receives a fraction of the attention.
For us, Banteay Kdei has some of the same atmosphere that makes Ta Prohm so enjoyable to explore, with ancient corridors, courtyards, weathered stone and intricate carvings throughout the complex. The difference is that far fewer people visit.
Come early enough in the morning and you may find yourself exploring entire sections of the temple without anyone else around.
Banteay Kdei was built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries as a Buddhist monastic complex. Its name is commonly translated as “Citadel of Chambers.”
The temple has suffered from structural deterioration over the centuries, and you can see leaning walls, displaced stones and partially collapsed areas as you explore.
Far from taking away from the experience, this gives Banteay Kdei much of its character today.
The corridors are one of the highlights of Banteay Kdei. Long sequences of stone doorways create views deep into the temple, while light entering through openings can completely change the appearance of the interior as you move around.
The carvings are also worth slowing down for. Look closely at the walls, towers and doorways and you’ll find beautifully detailed stonework that is easy to walk straight past.
There isn’t one famous tree or viewpoint that everyone is trying to reach. We think that’s one of Banteay Kdei’s strengths. Walk through slowly, look into the side chambers and pay attention to the details.
If you can, visit Banteay Kdei early in the morning.
While crowds gather at Angkor Wat and later move towards the better-known temples, Banteay Kdei can be remarkably quiet. On some early visits, you can walk through large parts of the complex with virtually nobody else there.
For photographers, this is particularly good. Empty corridors, repeating doorways, detailed carvings and morning light give you plenty to work with without constantly waiting for other visitors to move.
Srah Srang is directly opposite Banteay Kdei, so there is little reason to visit one without at least stopping at the other.
One of our favourite combinations is sunrise at Srah Srang followed by Banteay Kdei early in the morning. You get the open water and sunrise first, followed by the completely different atmosphere of Banteay Kdei’s dark corridors and courtyards.
From here, Ta Prohm is also nearby, making all three easy to incorporate into the same morning.
Yes. If you enjoyed Ta Prohm, there is a good chance you’ll enjoy Banteay Kdei too.
It doesn’t have Ta Prohm’s enormous tree-covered ruins, but the corridors and carvings are spectacular, and the lack of crowds can make exploring the temple much more intimate.
For us, Banteay Kdei is a good example of why it’s worth making time for some of Angkor’s less famous temples. Sometimes the places without the crowds are the ones you get to actually explore.
If you are visiting Banteay Kdei, you may as well also visit Srah Srang, as it’s opposite the main entrance to Banteay Kdei.
Angkor is much more than just Angkor Wat. Our Angkor temple guides are based on repeated visits and first hand experience, with practical advice on when to go, what to look for and which temples are worth including in your itinerary. Explore more of our guides below, or visit our complete Angkor Wat guide to start planning your time at Angkor.
